Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
